Sawar Muhammad Hussain

Catching the trail from a seasoned patwari from Gujar Khan, following the remote routes into the rural heart of Potohar, refueling our car from an unorthodox gas station with quite an unorthodox filling mechanism, we eventually knocked at the doorsteps of Sawar Muhammad Hussain Shaheed, Nishan e Haider.

Pul Shah Daula

That morning, I had returned to those familiar fields, to explore that bridge on the old alignment of Grand Trunk Road; a bridge frequented by Muhgal Kings, and other Kings who were not Mughal, their royal entourages and battle expeditions; a bridge that had witnessed a Mughal Coronation.